DeRUSHA's LIST: Best Under-Hyped Restaurants

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When I talk about my favorite under-hyped restaurants, I always get push-back. Those aren’t under hyped! Everyone goes there! UNDER HYPED! I get that it’s rich for a guy who writes in Minnesota Monthly to talk about under-hyped spots (why don’t you hype them up, dummy?) but I can write about a spot, it doesn’t mean the culture buys in or even knows that I wrote about!

Alyssa, Kim Tong (owner) and me at All Saints

I was thinking about this Friday night when Alyssa, Sam and I had dinner on my birthday at All Saints. All Saints is almost universally respected, the room was completely full on Friday night, but when you think of the hyped restaurants - is that in the top of your mind? I feel the same about Sanjusan: outstanding, chic room, every meal I have there I love.

Zack Brown asked this well in his Cooking Convos threads account: “Twin Cities folks—drop some restaurants I should check out. Nothing super well-known, I want to know your favorite hidden gems!” The answers are spectacular, although these aren’t really “hidden” gems. Disagree with me- have other ideas! Hit me up or leave a comment!! My top 4 are free - the rest of my list is for paid subscribers only. Thank you to EVERYONE for reading - and thanks to the paid folks for helping to subsidize this effort!!

DeRUSHA’S TOP 4 UNDER-HYPED

ALL SAINTS: Kim Tong working the room, Denny Leaf-Smith with a crew of veteran cooks in the kitchen, All Saints never misses for me. The salt + pepper fried mushrooms is an iconic dish over the last two decades, the burger is amazing, the wine list is approachable luxury, Scott Weller’s cocktails are a study in balance and flavor.

SANJUSAN: No one talks about Chef Peter Thillen and they should be! His pizza is among my favorite dough in the state. Their version of what an Italian restaurant in Japan would be like is so unique, so delicious, so cool. The service here is always glorious too. The whole Minneapolis building with whiskey bar Gori Gori Peku and sushi spot Kado No Mise is killer.

JOAN’S IN THE PARK: Joan’s is not underrated, as everyone knows how great it is, but it’s under-hyped. Maybe that’s because the owners are so modest and soft-spoken, but Joan Schmitt and Susan Dunlop have been creating beautiful food since 2011 in St. Paul. Tasting-menu only, 4 courses for $89/person. It’s a bargain.

GUS GUS: It’s small, parking is hard near UST in St. Paul, and it’s worth the work. Just the nicest people creating smallish plates packed with flavor and heart. Burger here is properly rated. Get the chips, the crudo, the cheeseburger, the gnocchi, get a cocktail and/or a bottle of wine. Warning: the ceilings are low, the place is packed, it’s one of the louder restaurants in town. It’s worth it.