DeRUSHA: The Value of the Food Critic
Plus Father's Day Brunch + Gift Ideas + The Return of Open Table
Sending this on Thursday instead of Friday. More useful during the summer? Let me know!
DOWNLOAD DIALOGUE: THE VALUE OF THE CRITIC
We are not a society that values expertise. The internet has democratized information, analysis, and knowledge in a way that is mostly positive but it’s ruined the concept of a critic. Everyone has an opinion, but not all opinions are of equal value. I’ve been thinking about critics and whether we want them, need them, deserve them any more. Jon Cheng stepped down as the Minnesota Star Tribune’s critic [gift link] this week saying he wanted to be anonymous again, he missed just living in the moment. He also said he missed writing about restaurants during his 6 month sabbatical where he’s been posting from Singapore and China. It is hard to experience fine dining, travel, exploration -while being a local food critic.
I love criticism but I don’t know if the marketplace values it. We want to be told where to go, we want to see pretty food pictures or good vibes, we don’t like paying for content or clicking through to a 800 word well-thought out critique. We watch videos of people eating takeout off their dashboards because it’s fun - not because we appreciate their expertise.
My style of writing is useful - my list of places I dined in any given month, my recommendations on Instagram - so is the Star Tribune’s “The 5 best things our food writers ate this week.” But criticism like Dara’s and Jon’s is meaningful. You don’t always have to agree (I don’t always!), but I respect their palates, their catalog of food experiences, and their independence. Do we value that or not?
This publication is supported by you! Every free subscriber helps; every paid subscriber gets bonus posts and my gratitude for helping make this worth it for me!
TOO BUSY TO DOWNLOAD?
Open Table Is Cool Again?
Macanda Re-opens After Refresh
HUGE list of things to do this weekend
Father’s Day Brunch / Gift Ideas
Incredible Interviews: Jonah Kaplan on antisemitism/his interview that made national news; Dave Schwartz nearly died in a car crash
RIVA TERRACE: HAPPIEST HOURS IS THE PLACE TO BE!
Sponsored Content thanks to Four Seasons Minneapolis Hotel
Alyssa, Tiffany, Sunny and I spent some time on the rooftop Riva Terrace at Four Seasons Minneapolis Hotel - it’s open Wed-Sun and open to the public. It felt like we were on vacation! Riva Terrace has $15 burger + beer specials on Twins home game days and we were blown away by the Happiest Hour. 4-6 Wed-Thu and all day Sunday get a $10 spritz (it was Hugo last week), $7 homemade sour cream and onion chips among other deals. The regular menu is fab too - pizza fries and Green Tomato & Strawberry Panzanella above. Details at https://fluence-media.co/4kvDdcs (Four Seasons is a DeRusha partner!)
MACANDA REOPENS WITH AMP’ED UP FOOD: I’m checking it out tonight - think Nobu on Lake Minnetonka. Reserve: https://fluence-media.co/3ZhNArX
OPEN TABLE ROARS BACK: I’ve always hated having to look for a bunch of different places to see what spots have open seats. Resy and Tock was where the cool kids moved - Open Table became the home for Buca & Outback.
That’s changing. Mara and Riva Terrace at Four Seasons are among the latest going back to OT - Ann Kim’s restaurants, Jester Concepts too. There’s an ICONS tab too, to show you spots like Manny’s, Billy Sushi, Young Joni - with open seats. Morning Brew explains some of the behind-the-scenes reasoning for the return to Open Table. [morningbrew.com]
TERZO OFFICIALLY CLOSES: The water main break led to massive flooding in February and the Broder Family has decided to call it. 12 years, it sucks that it was bad infrastructure that led to the end. MNMO: https://fluence-media.co/3SXVD9t
KONA GRILL RIDGEDALE CLOSED: Parent company told me it was at the end of the lease and closed as “part of The ONE Group's regular portfolio management strategy” which made me chuckle. Eden Prairie is still open.
SMALL HOURS’ MENU GROWS UP: Small Hours is one of our coolest new wine bars, it opened with a tinned fish menu and now has a full dinner menu. Jonathan Silvera is a talent to watch. https://fluence-media.co/3Hpa04k
FATHER’S DAY IDEAS
6SMITH Dude Food: 10a-3p, $80 https://www.6smith.com/events/fathers-day-1
The Lex opens early (10a) and adds a la carte brunch options: https://thelexmn.com/upcoming-events/
Wingin’ It at Graze Food Hall: $25 for 12 wings from different vendors. Noon-3p grazenorthloop.com/fathersday
Mr. Paul’s Creole Brunch: Sunday 10a-2:30p mrpaulssupperclub.com.
FATHER’S DAY GIFTS THAT DON’T SUCK: My gift guide for Father’s Day - paid subscribers got this last weekend in their email: now the whole list is at JasonDeRusha.com: https://fluence-media.co/3HaXYv9
BEST BARBECUE IN MINNESOTA: My list features KBBQ, Hanover, Rochester, and dozens of great spots for you to check out! [MNMO BBQ LINK]
GET SOCIAL: POSTS FROM DERUSHA
Hire a house cleaner! #ad from Bundl Home (comment to enter a $100 gift card giveaway!) (CODE CLEANJASON saves you $200 on your first 4 cleanings at bundlhome.com). I’m embedding the post because the lighting is so good.
10 courses, “4 Friends, 3 Cultures” at Bar Brava: https://fluence-media.co/3Hrllki
HELP ME FIND NOODS: Best noodles in MN - pasta, ramen/pho, udon! Threads: https://fluence-media.co/4dNFCNa IG: https://fluence-media.co/3SDuLLY
WHAT COULD YOU DO THIS WEEKEND:
EDINA ART FAIR: Friday/Sat/Sun 50th & France 50thandFrance.com
MAPLE GROVE CHALKFEST: Sat/Sun Main Street. https://fluence-media.co/3HELT1q
EGG ROLL FESTIVAL: Sat 11-6p, St. Paul Sears parking lot, https://eggrollqueen.com/events/
ST. CROIX VALLEY ART OPENER: 19 studios in Marine on St. Croix, Stillwater, Hudson. Fri/Sat/Sun in MN and WI: https://fluence-media.co/3FHRq6P
ST. ANTHONY PARK ART FESTIVAL: SAT Como in St. Paul near Nico’s Tacos, sapfest.org
NORTH LOOP GREEN BLOCK PARTY: Sun 12p-5p https://fluence-media.co/4jz4jOK
DADDY-O-ON-THE-PATIO: Sunday 12-4p with samples from 18 breweries for $10. https://malcolmyards.market/
WHAT AM I DOING THIS WEEKEND?
Friday night we’re having a pre-graduation family dinner for Sam at the private apartment at Borough, Saturday my parents are in town - brunch at Minneapolis Club, showing them our Groove Lofts apt, Sunday Sam graduates high school!
VIDEO FROM THE WCCO RADIO YOUTUBE CHANNEL:
JONAH KAPLAN ON HOW HE GOT THE FAMILY OF THE ISRAELI EMBASSY VICTIM TO TALK: https://fluence-media.co/4dNnK57 [audio only: https://fluence-media.co/4dPjF0c]
DAVE SCHWARTZ IN A CAR CRASH - LUCKY TO BE ALIVE: https://fluence-media.co/4kvH49x
SHOULD LAW ENFORCEMENT BE ALLOWED TO MASK THEIR FACES? https://fluence-media.co/3Hnh6GF
MICHAEL RAINVILLE WANTS TO CLOSE BOOM ISLAND PARK EARLY: https://fluence-media.co/4krK5r9
LEE WALLACE / PEACE COFFEE on prices and their growth: https://fluence-media.co/4kxc8Wk [YouTube: https://fluence-media.co/4kUMniE]
on the orb IDENTITY scanner & MR. BEAST: https://fluence-media.co/45taJeX | YouTube https://fluence-media.co/3HqxTZn
I do appreciate your thoughts.